Released in January as part of the spring 2014 collection, #92 Diapason is a complex, duochrome shade. The main colour is purple with light blue sheen, while the base colour is warm purple, almost brown. It’s packed with silver, purple and blue glitter.
The contrast between a warm base and cool sheen gives the eyeshadow a duochrome effect and makes it look different depending on the angle and the lighting. The warm base colour is more noticeable when applied sheer. As you build it up the cool tones become more prominent. It’s a beautiful shade, even though I wish the base colour wasn’t so warm. It seems that all darker shades of Chanel’s cream eyeshadows have that brownish hue in them.
When it comes to the formula, staying power is great and the eyeshadow creased only after more than 9 hours of wear. However, I must say it’s quite disappointing that Chanel hadn’t resolved one of their biggest weaknesses with this product line – mainly, the formula doesn’t quite reach the edges of the container and it eventually becomes loose. Imperfect packaging aside, it’s also dryer than my other two Illusion D’Ombre eyeshadows, and more difficult to apply, with bits falling off the brush. I took it back to the shop, and while their representative was very helpful, unfortunately we couldn’t find the one that didn’t exhibit the same issue. I have eventually decided to keep it, as I love the colour, but I find the whole issue with the formula very disappointing.
If you wonder how it compares to the #837 Fatal from the Holiday 2014 collection, they don’t have much in common. Fatal is more of a pinkish bronze, more brown and lighter. Next to Diapason it does not have a purple hue at all.
Do you own any of the Illusion D’Ombre eyeshadows? What are your thoughts on the formula?